Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Joined: Nov 2014
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
Joined: Nov 2014
Posts: 3
I am trying to preserve a 1960 Chevy 283. I spun up the oil pump to prime it and found that the oil canister was leaking at the bottom bolt. Nothing leaking from the top of the canister. It looks like a new copper washer is needed between the bolt head and the canister. My guess is that it was over torqued at some point.

My question is - how does the canister come apart so the new washer can be installed between the canister and the outside bolt head?

I was initially thinking that the shaft had threads on both ends. One end screwed into the oil by-pass on the side of the block. I was expecting the other end to have a nut on it. I now think that the shaft is a blot with threads only on one end. How is the shaft removed from the canister?

Thanks

Goodlookingbaldguy

Wilwood Engineering1955-1957

Willwood Engineering

Wilwood Engineering designs and manufactures high-performance disc brake systems.
Wilwood Engineering, Inc. - 4700 Calle Bolero - Camarillo, CA 93012 - (805) 388-1188


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ChatMaster - 25,000
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wel2

That is like a long bolt in the center. Inside of the can at the bottom There is a spring and a flanged metal sleve. The spring holds the sleve against the bottom of the filter element. The sleve is kind of a tight fit on the bolt but the long bolt can be removed. There is a copper washer between the head of the bolt and the can. Either the washer is the incorrect size or broken. The can is of quite heavy material so would doubt if there is a problem with it.
The filter was an AC141.


Gene Schneider
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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Thanks for the reply.

How do you get the long bolt out? Is there a clip someplace? I can see the spring but do not see how to remove it.

Any ideas on that?

Goodlookingbaldguy.

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It will take some force.


Gene Schneider
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thread a nut on the bolt then place the can on a pair of short 4 x 4" boards, place can with the bolt centered between the boards. then take a brass hammer and drive the bolt thru the can with ,as gene mentioned, force. then remove the nut and take bolt, slevee and spring from can. have done it numerous times to replace the brass/copper washer. good iuck,mike

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Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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That helps me out a lot. I hate to apply brute force before I know how something works.

I will give that a try.

I have been resisting putting on a spin-on filter because I think keeping the old 283 as close to its original history as possible is important. Armed with the information that has been provided, I can keep the canister oil filter on the car.

Thanks again to one and all.
Goodlookingbaldguy


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