VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc to retorque '48 head

OK, got the valve cover off ok. First thing is the #1 bolt is under the valve train. Do you remove the rockers and torque or skip #1 and do all the rest and HOPE for the best.

I did #2 - #15 @ 80 lbs. Some did not move, some very little, 2 about 1/8 turn. IS this normal?? Engine now has 470 miles but was put together nine years ago.

One other thing, head #839401 is the right head, I looked it up. The other # is H28 is that the date code '48 week 28????

They used to make a special off-set wrench for the center boolt. If it were mine I would leave well enough alone. The other movement you got would be considered normal.

If you used a modern head gasket a re-torque probably wasn't needed.

I know nothing about the rebuild. Was out of my hands. I didn't think it could hurt anything?

It won't hurt anything, I would have done the same thing if it was mine and I didn't know what kind of head gasket was used.

It would seem to me that the only reason to re-torque head bolts, is to restore the pounds of pressure they exact upon the head gasket. Over time the bolts (and the head gasket) may relax somewhat and not have the torque originally imposed upon them.

I think that if the bolts were not torqued beyond normal proprieties (elasticity, etc.) that re-torquing is not necessary. By the time the bolt relaxes enough to cause blow-by it will be about time to redo the engine anyway.

Charlie

In 1941 Chevrolet suggested retorquing with every engine tune-up.

Gene,

Probably owing to the head gaskets used at the time.

Was there a charge for that re-torquing?

Was it common for the head bolts to turn any before the dial reached the desired torque value or calibrated torque wrench to click? Probably a little on each bolt.

Anyway, I doubt that with modern head gaskets that it is necessary unless the bolts have been stretched previous


Charlie