Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks


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Hawkeye Offline OP
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m006840, I not changing the entire front axle - only the backing plates. That way I can upgrade the brakes to the Bendix system. If you look to the left of the first photo in my post, you can see better body mount. I got them at a local junkyard off a car from S. Dakota - very good condition. I had them blasted and primed while the car was at the sand blaster. I tried to save the wire harness, but it started to crumble in my hands. It was removed and will be replaced with a new one. Better safe than sorry.

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Hawkeye Offline OP
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M006840, I am only using the front backing plates from the 1953 axle. That way I can upgrade the brakes to the Bendix system. If you look at the first photo, you will see on the left side two better body mounts. I found them at a local junkyard. They are off a '51 S. Dakota car. They were blasted and primed while the car was at the sandblaster. The wire harness started to crumble in my hands, so a new one will be installed - better safe than sorry.

Bobg1951chevy, the steering knuckle supports for the 1950 are not the same as the 1953. They do look alike but they look longer and have different part numbers. I am not using the '53 ones. If I have to change them, I have NOS ones for 1950. Parts #3687651 (R) and 3687652 (L) fit 59-52. Different number for '53.

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Originally Posted by Hawkeye
M006840, I am only using the front backing plates from the 1953 axle. That way I can upgrade the brakes to the Bendix system. If you look at the first photo, you will see on the left side two better body mounts. I found them at a local junkyard. They are off a '51 S. Dakota car. They were blasted and primed while the car was at the sandblaster. The wire harness started to crumble in my hands, so a new one will be installed - better safe than sorry.

Bobg1951chevy, the steering knuckle supports for the 1950 are not the same as the 1953. They do look alike but they look longer and have different part numbers. I am not using the '53 ones. If I have to change them, I have NOS ones for 1950. Parts #3687651 (R) and 3687652 (L) fit 59-52. Different number for '53.

This is a pic from a post I was thinking of, from the Chevy Talk site. They discussed the "swap" of the supports, to obtain a 1" lower front end.

A lot of work, in my opinion, for a 1" drop.

See attached pic.
http://www.chevytalk.org/fusionbb/showpost.php?post/2399507/



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Hawkeye Offline OP
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Thanks for the information. I will be using the 1950 stock front axle. The only things that will change are the backing plates and the brakes. I see no benefit in using the entire '53 front axle.

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Originally Posted by Hawkeye
Thanks for the information. I will be using the 1950 stock front axle. The only things that will change are the backing plates and the brakes. I see no benefit in using the entire '53 front axle.

iagree dance



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Hawkeye Offline OP
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Well, my car was on the road again this past Sunday. Had to wait for good weather to go to the body shop. It was a balmy 33 degrees with wind chills in the upper 20's - and nothing falling out of the sky. A BIG improvement from earlier in the week. Now that I have some room to move around, I plan on organizing all the parts so I will be able to find them later without having to spend half a day looking.

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I did the same thing to my 50 Fleetline. Used 53 backing plates and brakes and installed 53 rear end. Rear end had 3:73 gears and I installed 3:55 but was a direct bolt in. Kept the 3:73 as that is a good choice also. My passenger front body mount was rusted also and changed it out with another. Your project brings back memories of doing mine. Gotta love those 50 Chevys. John

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Went to visit my car in the intensive care unit at Rob's Auto Body today. The rear quarter was removed and you can see the damage of the past 64 years. When people ask me where I am from, I tell them "Ohio, where rust never sleep". Some parts I have, some parts I am buying and the rest will have to be made.

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Dear Lord!!! I'm glad my '51 wasn't that bad! My '50 I'm pretty sure is/was worse though! Where did you find the NOS replacement fender?


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Hawkeye Offline OP
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Brewster, this car is very interesting. From the frame out, this car just rotted away because it sat in a dirt floor garage. But, from the frame in, it is perfect. After it was sandblasted, you could see stamped numbers in the floor itself. The previous owner had the market cornered on bondo and stupid. Bondo can be fixed but stupid.... This was the guy who attached the crown moldings with pop rivets. He used copper tubing for brake lines. Cut wires to add turn signals, but did not cover bare wires. Anyway, about the NOS Rear Quarters. I bought them at a Central Meet around 1980. They only fit a hardtop. The part numbers are still visible on both quarters. Once the wheel housings are replaced and floor repaired, the rest of the body is decent. I'm glad I bought a lot of NOS sheet metal back when it showed up a swap meets. You might find the attached photos interesting as well.

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The winter was very tough and we lost 4 weeks due to the cold temps. Some progress to show of the passenger side.

Rocker panel and Floor BEFORE
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Inner Rocker Panel and Floor AFTER
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Below Rear Quarter Window BEFORE
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Below Rear Quarter Window AFTER
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Repaired Rear Floor
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New Trunk Floor Panel and Wheel House
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New Rear Quarter Installed
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Wow... You are really moving now! It's surprising how good the floor looks considering the rockers were so bad. I'm assuming there was a good coat of undercoating on it? You really scored with all of that NOS metal!


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Hawkeye Offline OP
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I am very lucky to have a real body man who knows how to make parts, fix problems and is a genuine car guy. Like I said earlier, the outer edges of this car were basically gone. From the frame in, the floor was in very good condition. I had some help finding and buying NOS parts back when you could find them at a Swap Meet. When we turn the car around to work on the Drivers Side, I hope to get better photos.

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Knowing those Ohio winters only too well, you may be well served to ask your body man to create a good, sturdy frame for a Meyers or Western snow blade, as well. dance

Hawkeye, You know what a "hot spot for cars" northern Ohio is.

Don't know if you're familiar with Big Al, who has taken gobs of time and put together this website.

There are several cruise ins to attend in northern Ohio, each and every night, for 7 days/nights per week.

Open the link, click on weekly and monthly cruise ins .... add your zip code plus the radius you want to search, then get ready to cruise with your BelAir.

http://www.bigalslist.com/




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I have had a favorite's list with Big Al's List for several years now. Thanks

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Originally Posted by Hawkeye
I have had a favorite's list with Big Al's List for several years now. Thanks

Amazing group of places to go to .... Big Al began this list many years ago, from Painesville, Ohio ( I believe).

Never a dull moment, cruising the high ways and by ways of northern Ohio. carbana



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It's been a little longer than five months since the '50 was taken to the body shop. I picked up the car yesterday with the help of Larry, the tow truck guy. All the rust was cut out and missing metal pieces were replaced. The body is in prime until the engine and transmission are installed. The next item is to remove the rear axle/torque tube and work on the leaf springs. When that is completed, the new and improved rear axle will be installed, all new plumbing and finish the front axle. It sure is nice to start taking parts out of boxes and installing them.

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It has been a very busy summer doing things around the house in very nice weather conditions that were NOT car related. So, yesterday when it was decided to install the engine back in the '50, the weatherman helped us by producing wind gusts up to 35 mph and cooler temps, in the low 50's. I got all the parts layed out, the engine hoist assembled and the homemade engine cradle ready. When my brother-in-law Tim "the wrench" arrived, we hooked up the engine to the hoist, removed the engine from the stand and lower the motor onto a cradle. The pressure plate and clutch were installed as well as the bell housing. Now the tricky part - lowering the engine back into the car WITHOUT damaging the painted firewall. After some raising, lowering and tilting, the motor finally is back where it should be. We installed the transmission thru the access floor panel with more turning, tilting, raising and lowering. Mission accomplished! A long day but worth the effort. Could not have done this without help from Tim and all the tools and knowledge he brought. And Andy, whose engine hoist I borrowed and his over the phone experience that really helped us.

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Parts, hoist and tools ready

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New motor mount threads had to be cleaned up. New size bolts were needed - smaller than original ones

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Engine ready to be removed from stand

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Engine in craddle - more stable for assembly

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The Equalizer Bar is a MUST for engine removal and installation

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Engine is back where it belongs

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I had the very same problem with my new motor mounts as well. Cheap repro junk!
Your engine looks really nice... when does the rest of the paint go on the car?


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Am I correct in assuming that the front motor mount plate is drilled for both a passenger car and a pickup?


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The replacement front mounting plates were universal.....had the bottom studs for the truck and drilled for the 1937-1951 mounts. Productionn mounts were all different, such as the holes for the mounts up through 1951, no holes for 1952 and up and bottom studs for trucks as required.


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Not sure what you mean, Keith, or if there is even a difference in the mount. My problem was with the threading in the new mount. What was odd was that the bolt from the bottom holding the mount to the cross member was right. The threads for the bolt from the engine was wrong. I took it to a Brofasco Fastener store up here and had them go through their inventory of metric and imperial bolts looking for one that would fit. Nothing fit!! You would think that if you are a company selling these as Genuine reproduction parts, the one thing you would have to get right is the thread size from the original bolt!! Too easy, I guess! I ended up tapping it out, like Hawkeye did above...

Last edited by brewster; 10/04/15 01:08 PM.

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I was talking about the motor mount holes in the front plate, not the cushions. I have one that has no motor mount holes.


1946 Chevy 3100 1/2 Ton Pickup Purchased 11/18/17 Sold 9/20
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Brewster, paint will have to wait a little while - have to fill up the piggy bank first. I posted a photo of the original front motor mount. Next to it you can see the original black bolt. The original bolt size is 7/16" - 20 fine thread. The new mount takes a 3/8" - 24 fine thread. (Sorry brewster, I can't convert to metrics). The new mount had to be cleaned up - not retapped. Just poor quality. You can have your original mounts revulcanized, but expensive.

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It has been a while since I posted any real progress. Have been working on a lot of small projects until today. I finally installed the hood with some help from my wife. Once the hood was placed onto the car, I then attached it to the hinges - not easy by yourself. I used a trick that was told to me by my 84 year old mechanic. Instead of buying the hinge installation tool or using a home made version out of rebar, I used washers. I used between 86 and 94 to get the spring extended to mount to the hinges. I used my floor jack and after several tries, the spring was at the correct length. I just closed the hood and most of the washers fell out or were loose enought to pull out. I then repeated the process on the other side. It turned out just fine. No fingers or tools were hurt in the operation. Next step will be installing the front clip sheet metal.

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