VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND NEWER 1946-1948 Looking at a rough 46 Fleetline

I have an "opportunity" to pick up a '46 Fleetline Aerosedan, rough. Trying to just learn what I can from what data I've got so far.

Engine # DAA 511959

Body # S 12440

(can't yet get access to the right side of the car! So can't see Engine Casting Date behind the starter, nor the VIN on the floorboard sill area, if it's still there)

The little bit I know tells me the DAA is 1946 (second design???)

And I think the Body Number is telling me St Louis plant.

Does anyone have a Chart of sequential numbers to be able to say about WHEN the car was built?

(really don't know if I want to bite off a project this major...)

Thanks!

Don.......Seriously??? Does Liz know about this????

If I were home, I could tell you what month the car was built, but I don't have that info with me. Should have scanned it at some point so I'd have it on my computer no matter where I was.

Don, it all looks legit so far, and engine is original to the car. Your engine breakdown is right on,

D-1946
A-passenger car
A-Flint plant, regular engine (W/O hydrovac)

Second design as you mentioned.

S12440

S is St. Louis and the only other item I can add is that all plants started at #1001 for each sequence, but I can't offer any other details about the date without more info. Hopefully someone else can chime in and give specifics. The date of manufacture would be in the serial number as the 3rd digit (on the door pillar). I feel your frustration, I looked at a '48 last summer and could get all the numbers BUT that one since it was up against a shed and the door wouldn't open wide enough to see it.

Does the car have original glass in it still? That would have date stamps that would be fairly close. Our '47 was a November car and all the glass has an 11-47 stamp on it. That would get you somewhere in the ballpark.

Here's hoping you take it home with you, and best wishes for it. Sometimes we need a fresh challenge once in a while Right?

Cheers

Thanks for the info!

Cousin Dale - she is going with me to look at it again tomorrow, but she always just says "buy it if you want it" - she long ago decided that was so much easier!

This is a project and then some - needs absolutely everything - but it is essentially "free." I can turn the engine, and it all appears to be real close to 100% complete. Somebody decided to remove all the paint a few decades ago and stuff all the trim in the back seat area, but it has been in inside dry storage since - but is totally covered with surface rust, some of which is getting fairly serious. And they pulled out the radiator and water pump, who knows. It was last licensed in 1978, showing 112,000 miles. Has all the original parts that I can see, so far. But I would probably have to pull the wheels and get tires on it that hold air before it could be pulled out into the daylight (for the first time in over 30 years).

It's tempting! Did I mention Free? How can you not want a car that is free? And Aerosedans are kinda cool -

Of course, there's a reason it's free - it would make a great project to spend 3 or 4 years of labor and $25,000, to end up with a car worth about $18,000. In other words, a perfect old car hobby purchase!

Rats! What I used to do to post photos must have changed! Working to turn those links into photos...

Edit - OK, got photos now, sorry they're so huge. Will work on that next....

Yes sir, that's a large project. You don't see the '46 cars that much anymore it seems though. Free is always the right price, though...even if you just scuff it, prime it and throw it on the market.

It would be a good save if and look amazing after its done, but wouldn't they all?

Engine # DAA=
D=1946
A= passenger car engine
A=Regular engine made at Flint
1946 Flint engine numbers ranged from DA-1001 through DA-546865.
1946 production didn't really get going until March of 1946 due to a strike. 1946 production ended in mid Jan. 1947. The Fleetline Aero didn't come along till at least April 1946. The engine number would put it about the fall of 1946.The 1946 serial number was not on the floor. It is on the right front door hinge post.
There is no first or seconed design 1946 passenger cars - trucks only.
Body numbers strated with 1 , serial numbers began with 1001.

In my opinion for which you didn't ask you will be up-side-down in the car by the time your finished restoring it not even counting your labor.
I am surpried it has a 1946 engine as it has a later valve cover with the oil filler on top. Perhap it has line a 1950 or so cylinder head.

Thanks Gene - good to hear from you!

On the "second design" thing - I thought that was talking about the engine? Saw a couple of references to that, but not clear. Associated wtih the "DAA" code portion.

I know of course about the 1947 truck and the early "juke box" style, followed by the Advance Design truck later in the year. Is that what you're referring to? Thanks.

See the last comments I added on.

Don... that is some "light surface rust"! Would it be better to pay a couple grand now for better sheet metal?? On the other side of the coin, this old girl needs saving... and you're certainly the guy for the job!

Roger that - the valve cover has been changed, I noticed that. This one had been chrome plated at some point, and then later painted over the plating. Doesn't really show in the photo. I hope tomorrow to be able to get more numbers from the car, maybe pull off that rocker cover (I think it's pretty safe that it'll be dry under there!) and see the Head Casting date at that time. But the Block is for sure a DAA - see below -

And I completely agree that I would end up upside down financially. That's why I said that final line in the posting above with the photos (which I finally got re-sized and working). But hey, who's in it for the money, anyway? I'm sure I could spend approximately twice what the car's worth restoring it - I'm good at that...

Hiya, Brewster - now I never said "light" surface rust - I said "some of which is getting fairly serious" - but it's not through the sheet metal anywhere. Well, OK, maybe a couple of places low on the rear quarters. But that's what sandpaper is for. So, this is an excellent opportunity (love that word!)to go to bare metal and respray.... I was thinking Seafoam Green lower body, Volunteer Green roof - always liked that combo on '40s cars.

That is a nice color combo indeed. Scout Brown and Sport Beige also can look sharp.





The shot of the firewall looks like there's some remaining Oxford Maroon there, which also looks dynamite. Is there some stainless and trim with the car?

Don't sweat the rust, that's why they make this lovely stuff and sell it by the gallon. Ha ha!

In all honesty, I think you could get into that one pretty deep, but if it comes out as nice as your previous restos then it would be another Chevy saved and admired by many. Keep us posted!

Yeah, but the labor is free! It appears that (hopefully) ALL the stainless is there - the back seat is filled with parts to the top of the seat backs - and there are zillions of pieces of stainless. Of course without getting them and laying them out and taking inventory, we can't be sure. And the car has been stripped down for a long time, but not moved. It's when they get moved around (or stored in high traffic areas) that pieces start wandering off, in my experience. So hopefully most all of it will be present.

Yes, original paint was (mono-color) "Martial Maroon Metallic" it's called in 1946, paint code 337.

Yep, original Head. "L-13-6" Can never remember if "L" is November or December - did they use "I" for September or skip it because it would be confusing? So, it's either Nov. or Dec. 13, 1946. And of course they built the 1946 models really late into the winter, so it's not a '47.

It was surprisingly nice and clean in there.

L is December so it is a very late 1946.
1946 production ran from 10-3-45 to 1-11-47

So they did use "I" for September in the codes. Thanks!

I looked too much like a 1 so it wasn't used.
Note though on an engine number. The I was used in the series of numbers instead of a 1.....they must have has a cheap set of number stamps.

If the "I" wasn't used then how can "L" be December?

I will admit to being confused now, too. Gene's last two posts seem to disagree with each other.

I am looking for info.

Valve springs and valves don't look too shabby. I've seen worse on running engines. A friend of mine calls these "zombie 216's" because no matter how long they've been sitting or how bad they are, usually with a little tweaking they'll fire up, smoke a bit, and then keep purring like they didn't just sit it out for 3 decades. I'll bet she'll run

Bet she will, too!

My experience with zombie 216's (I like that) that have been idle for THIS long is as follows:

(1) remove valve cover, soak with oil and tap each valve with a hammer to see that none are stuck (as you know, bent push rods suck)

(2) Drain and refill crankcase.

(3) Rebuild or switch out the carburetor (sure you can skip this step, pour gas in it and make it belch, but you know it's going to be full of crud and things are stuck and it has plugged up passages).

(4) Replace points & condensor, clean or replace plugs (and plug wires if they're falling apart). Dump some oil down the cylinders while the plugs are out

(5) rig a Mickey Mouse fuel supply

(6) put some water in it

(7) spin the engine for a while with the starter with the plugs out and juice things up good

(8) start the engine (like it ran last week!) And grab a gas mask for the oil smoke, and pray the rings open back up. And start counting things that leak!


Of course, having a spare Rochester Model B or Carter W-1 carb on hand is helpful, and spare spark plugs and point sets laying around. Makes all the above go much quicker.

The 216 is an awesome piece of equipment!

Yep, got her home and hosed her off, think she's going to clean up OK........might not have to paint it green after all... purring like a kitten.....
(sure....) (when pigs fly)





( Gotta say this so I don't confuse Brewster.... I'm just kidding here, obviously - did not get it yet. And it would probably take me a little longer than one evening...might take all week)

The letter "I" was used in the serial number for August so L would be December. Not sure about casting numbers though. Would be intresting to see the serial number.

If "I" was used in August so then in the sequence of things "L" would be November, not December.

Regarding the engine casting date, I have seen engine blocks with the casting letter of "I" for September, "K" for November and "L" for December. The letter "I" had to have been used in the casting letter sequence or the letters for November and December would not fit into the monthly sequence correctly.

Don... The only part that confused me was when you

"(5) rig a Mickey Mouse fuel supply"
then
"(6) put some water in it"

I thought you were a "Bugger the Greenies" type. Now I find out you've got a water powered Fleetline...

JYD, you are correct. I meant to say M for Dec.

Brewster - that is an OUTSTANDING come-back! Really well played! I yield.

And oh, yeah - Bugger the Greenies....

On this production month thing - there is no "M" - Gene meant to say that "I" was used for September (not August which is "H") and the question was simply if "I" was used or skipped over. Now we know it was used. So therefore "L" = December. It is settled. See below from our friends at "Old Car Manual Project."

And yes, now the car is mine. Got the title. Everything matches up: 46 Fleetline, St Louis built, in December. Serial Number is 3DKL 52795

Now the fun begins.

Yep...."I" is September, "J" is October, "K" is November and "L" is December. Glad that we got that confusion cleared up!

As smiple as A-B-C........if your mind is working

And that would be "January", "February" and "March".

Lucky you!!! Was this an inspiration??

That should inspire anybody! Beautimous!!!

Geez at least you know it's a frame off and you'll fall into a system rather easily. That body is not bad imho, it's a hand full but surface is surface and that ain't bad. Kuddos for rescuing that nice old car. Far more good points than bad, Sir. You gotta fire it up and run down the road with the e-brake set up just to get the juices flowing. I only mentioned frame off because it has come to what it is under a cover.. so out side things may speed up if not addressed. I would have got it in a heart beat! Have fun, freezerburn

Yahoo another one saved, Like Daryl said that color on the firewall looks like oxford maroon..

Thanks for all the encouragement here, folks. (48heavychevy, in '46 that color was called "Martial Maroon" - "Oxford" is for 47 and 48 - but essentially the same color, yes.) Tons of work here, this car is rough.

Today, I got it jacked up off the ground and put casters under it so I could push it away from the wall to finally get to the passenger side - pushed it sideways on the casters. Then, sat it back down off the casters so I could pull the wheels and get some tires on it (tomorrow, hopefully) that will hold air well enough to move it into my trailer, probably on Tuesday.

She hasn't moved (or been touched) from this storage unit since since the late 1980's. I do have the grille, which is probably salvageable. Need to find a set of correct 16" wheels for it, it has newer 15's on it right now.

Does it roll okay, or do you have any frozen brake drums? Also, what is your preferred method of winching up a non-runner?

Hope it goes smoothly for you and you can get it home safe & sound.

I've got 3 of the wheels turning, but RF brake is still stuck. Hope to get a wheel and tire on there later today and get enough leverage to get it turning. As far as how I do it, I have a winch permanently mounted in the front of my trailer. I just wrap the cable around the front axle / cross member, and pull her in.

Found this in the trunk - brought it home, but it doesn't light. Appears to be original GM and the matching holes are there on the driver's door post / cowl area. Couple of small dents. Worth anything?

Regarding the stuck wheel, on one of the car rescue TV shows, the guy hit the brake drum with a hammer to free it up.

You could always leave the casters under that one wheel.

Anther idea is that if you have towing insurance for your regular car, they could deliver it to you on a flatbed tow truck. They are set up for non-moving wheels on vehicles.

Enjoy the process of solving problems! Really, it is a lot of fun!

Cheers, Dean

I am still trying to determine why Don calls it a rough 46 Fleetline. Fixing a little surface rust is much easier than welding in patch panels, floorboards, rockers etc. It looks pretty well complete to me and even came with a genuine accessory spotlight. I think when Don gets done it will make a nice cover photo for the G & D.

Well, it followed me home tonight, ahead of schedule. Went to my buddy's junkyard (it is good to have a slightly deranged friend that owns a junkyard - I highly recommend it. So you have somebody to call up and say "Hey, do you have 3 old six lug Chevy wheels with tires on them that will still hold air so I can make this car into a roller?" and they will say "Sure"). Anyway, my neighbor that owns the self-storage facility where this old car has been sitting forever wanted to finish getting it out of there today. The weather is supposed to cool off pretty much tomorrow - today it was a balmy 25. (that's how this all started. Neighbor says "hey, I've got to get an old Chevy out of a storage unit that the guy stopped paying rent on. You want it? I should have run the other way).

So I got 4 tires on it that will hold air today, got the final brake loose so that wheel would turn and it would roll, and we pulled it out of the storage unit with a tractor. I did discover that the Clutch still works, and it will run through the gears. Rushed home and hooked up the trailer and went and got it - was almost late for dinner - not good! But it's here now, and probably will sit in the trailer until Spring time.

Steve, it IS rough. That surface rust is so deep in places that if you took a DA to it, you would be sanding nothing but air before you got to the bottom of the pits. And the rust is all the way through around the lip of the right front fender and at the leading edge - somebody has riveted galvanized on there. Rear fenders are crispy at the bottom edges, a few holes through. The trunk floor and spare tire well are worse than swiss cheese, there is a hole chopped in the floorboards above the transmission. All the pot metal is junk, too pitted to want to save. The stainless might be OK. The drip gutters along the top wiggle. Interior - springs poking you in the butt, but still some big areas that have the original material . Suspension, exhaust, brakes, all are "just start over" condition. Can't even tell the dash ever had wood-graining on it. Oh, my.....what was I thinking. If it was a valuable car when completed, then it would make some sense.

Here she is out in day light in the first time for a very long time, and rolling on her own, at least -

It looks like something from horror movie

Sometimes that "ol car disease" hits pretty hard. I saw a Craigslist ad recently for a 54 powertrain from a restored car that was getting a v-8. Rblt 235-pg trans with rear axle for $800.00 . I'm hoping it's sold before I find the $$$. Maybe you could have the car dipped and it will disappear and solve your problem!!

PS; Ebay the spotlight and you will be ahead.

You guys are killing me - I love it! "Dip it and it will disappear" - could work, and it WOULD solve the problem. Gene, you're totally right, it DOES look like something from a horror movie. Maybe I'll name it Christine. Actually, if I just painted it with gray primer and put the trim back on, it would look pretty presentable. Would probably do pretty well on eBay at that point.

Man some of you guys are fussy , it was FREE F R E E ,where ya gonna find another? All the good old wrecking yards are selling out to China, I think its a good deal, fix it, and may the force be with you.

Any time you can save one, it helps keep good 'ol American iron from becoming a Harbor Freight hammer. Don thanks for the updates, and best of luck with it. You've got parts scouts all over if you want them. Hope you can put it back on the road in a few.

Gene is definitely onto something with the horror movie idea. She has The Look - like a car after a fire. This car was never on fire though, because the original interior (such as it is) is still in there. Maybe she does need to be named Christine...