VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc '41 transmission removal

In a few days I plan to remove the trans from my '41 coupe to, at a minimum, replace the synchronizing rings. First I need to locate some rings. COF and Filling Station don't show them in their catalogs. I found some on line at Vintage Auto Parts. Anyone deal with them? The manual says the trans is to be removed from the topside - through a hole in the floor board. Has anyone done this? Would it be just as easy to drop it onto a floor jack and roll it out from underneath?
Thanks,
Sid

I was under the impression that Vintage Auto Parts was out of business. Know they were having problems. Maybe someone stepped in to save them. Does one of our Denver based Chatters know the current status?

Their web site is still on the Internet and it seems to be current: http://www.vapinc.com/

6wheel, I have dropped the transmissions on my 39, 48, 53, 54, and it's easier to drop it from the bottom. I just had the cars up on jack stands, so I would be able to get under the car. I had no problems, it took about 30 mins to drop it. Good luck

Junior

Hi Sid, On page 199-200 of the 41 manual it describes removing the transmission. It will not come out through the bottom because of the transmission frame/brace which you can see in the first picture. I would also plan on at least an hour to pull it working underneath and inside the car. Step 11 talks about "inserting two transmission guide pins." I made my own and you can see them in my other pictures. Notice the slot I have cut in them so I can use a screwdriver to screw them in. I also put a nut on the ends of the screws when I want to shimmy the transmission back into the clutch housing case when reinstalling it. Without these screws you are going to have a lot of trouble dealing with the weight, and aligning, the transmission as you take it out and put it back in.

I have not seen the synchronizing gears ever for sale. Let me know if you find a source and the cost. I always assumed to get new ones I would have to send the transmission in to be rebuilt. Chevs of the 40's advertises this service. I would not take anything apart until I had the correct replacement parts. Transmissions are not easy to take apart unless you know what you are doing? Good luck and keep us informed, Mike

Thanks Mike, very helpful information. I'll make sure I can get the rings before I even remove the floor covering. I have a very talented machinist friend who just built another engine and trans for me, and he's ready to do this one. I just need to get it out. I hope my floorboards look as good as yours.
Sid

I understand that the website is still active. However that does not mean that there still are a viable business to deal with. When I was in Denver in December 2012 I was told by locals that they were having major financial and personnel problems. Because of that I would not trust them to fulfill a transaction until one of the locals told me that they were above board and worth dealing with again.

thanks Chipper and Dog, I'll check elsewhere for the rings.
Sid

filling station has the rings!

Hi Sid, What is the cost on the rings? Please keep us informed on how things work out. Thanks, Mike

part # RW-453, and they are $35.00 each

Removed the trans today. Mike's estimate of one hour didn't work out for me - it took three!
Sid

You were a long ways from beating flat rate.

I never believe the flat rate books. They are timed after doing 3 practice runs and all tools are within easy reach of the job and not still in the tool box on the other side of the shop.
Tony

Congrats Sid, I bet you slept well last night. I have a bad back and hate lifting out and carrying around my transmission. Since you are doing a rebuild I would suggest you replace the front bearing with one that doesn't let oil run all the way through it. You can replace the front bearing with a permanently lubricated one or one that allows oil to enter on one side only. When I was trying to find out why my pressure plate was getting contaminated I noticed two different oil types in my flywheel cover. One was the thin oil from a leaking rear seal the other was the thicker oil I had in my transmission. Maybe, I had added to much oil to the transmission and it was flowing out the front, or maybe the bearing was just well worn and passing more oil?

By the way what was the cost of your set of synchronizing rings from the Filling Station? Good Luck, Mike

P.S. I think 3 hours or more is what it takes me by the time I remove the seat, etc. I just couldn't believe the half hour estimate. I like to take my time and enjoy the process and not be on a schedule. When the phone rings in the garage I always say, "YES DEAR I WILL BE RIGHT IN."

hi Mike, the rings are $35 each at filling station, and yes I did sleep very well, and yes I'm sore in lots of new places.
Sid

I took the transmission to my machinist friend this morning. He opened the side plate and was very pleased with the what he saw. Gears look perfect. He realized immediately that he didn't have the tools required to disassemble the unit. Therefore, we don't know the condition of the synchronizing rings. Chevs of the 40's offers a rebuild service, but at a $550 cost, and I don't know whether I need a rebuild or not. Does anyone have a source for the special tools required for dis-assembly? He also noted that the u-joint was not tightly attached to the output shaft, which could affect shifting. I also took the vacuum assist cylinder with me this morning. My machinist thinks that could be the source of my shifting problem. It will not hold any vacuum. Does someone rebuild these units, or are there good ones available somewhere? He also suggested eliminating the vacuum assist system. If for no other reason, it would determine if the transmission shifts okay without spending $550 for a rebuild. I really want to use the vacuum assist system, because it was such an innovative thing in its day. Your thoughts would be appreciated.
Sid

Hi Sid, I will respond more later with tool ideas. I may even have a video tape that I can put on a CD of my disassembling my transmission. I have at least 3 extra transmissions around here from Chevys of the 40's. I think you should do an Advanced Search to see what has been discussed on our chat site with transmission problems through the years. I tend to feel that some transmission problems are not caused by abuse/wear and tear but rather by linkage adjustments. I may have the parts for setting up a non vacuum operated shifting system. But like the vacuum assist systems it would require proper linkage adjustment to make it work well. I do not have vacuum assist in my car, but also have to double clutch to shift without grinding the gears. I also live in a town where I can accelerate slowly and don't mind pissing a few off by being a slow driver. I also have a couple of vacuum assist units if you need parts. Chevy of the 40's sells parts for rebuilding them. Today is our first day of 50 degree weather so a friend and I are off to the junk yard. I got my boots ready and can't wait!!! Good luck, Mike

First, I know nothing! However, I can relate what happened to me on a '47 MD in 1954.

Shifting became so stiff I had to force it into 2nd. All gear lever movement was almost impossible. I was ready to remove the vac shift. A Chevy mechanic (a good 'un) cautioned me not to do that. He said to replace the "yoke" assy on the mast jacket where the shift lever was attached.

He was right! The "yoke" assy is pot metal and is threaded. They get dry and the threads gall making it almost impossible to shift gears. You could still buy 'em at the dealer at the time. I pulled the steering wheel and replaced the "yoke" assy (I put a bit of grease on the threads). The ol' '47 shifted like new!

While you have everything disconnected, you might check that "yoke" and lube it a bit.

Good luck!

Nothing nicer than a good working vacuum shift assembly. I installed a new boot a couple years ago and adjusted everything and couldn't be happier. It takes an extra set of hands and some time but well worth the effort. Little things like replacing the vacuum hoses helps also.

Since I don't have the right tools to take my transmission apart to determine if the synchro rings are bad, I'm trying to figure a way to test its shifting capability without the vacuum cylinder. With my non-working vacuum cylinder removed, could the transmission be shifted using the existing small rod that runs from the column to the small bracket on the transmission and the larger rod that runs from the column to the larger bracket on the trans that also was fastened to the front of the vacuum cylinder? (This larger bracket clamps to the large shaft coming out of the left side of the trans and was also fastened to the front of the vacuum cylinder with a clevis pin and cotter pin.) Hope this makes sense.
Sid

"In the day" you could buy a kit to remove the vac shift assy. From what I heard (early '50's) if not adjusted properly, the tranny didn't last very long using the kit.

If you want to go this route, you might get lucky enough to find such a kit.

There are folks here that know all about this one.

All you need is a screw driver or something to contract the ring holding the rear bearing in place and a punch and a hammer. Knock out the main shaft and take the loose gears out. The lower parts come apart when the shafts are knocked out as well. The screw driver or plyers are then needed for the rear bearing. No stinkin' special tools are needed. I just dissambled a 1940 transmission to get parts for Alligator. Those were the only tools that I can think of that I used.

I encourage all who are tempted to forgo the vacuum shift to not do so. a properly working vacuum shift is soooo sweet! Is too!

Best,
Charlie

Here are a few pictures of what the non vacuum linkage looks like.

I am going to try Charlie's directions tomorrow for disassembling the transmission. I always take the front bearing retainer off first, with some tools I made, then just pry the bearing up a little and wiggle the shaft out. I don't start by taking the back bearing out first and tapping the shaft forward!!! Thanks, Charlie

I am trying to shoot a video to help Sid disassemble his transmission. This is as far as I have gotten. Is there anyone who can tell me what I need to do next to get the main shaft out. I am only so mechanically incline!!! I do think that what I have already done is AMAZING. I included the diagram so we could agree on the names of the parts. I think I NEXT need to remove the rear bearing from the main shaft? Do I have to reinstall the rear bearing in the case and then drive the shaft forward? I hate to hit on the shaft if the gears are not in the right position. I don't think I have a tool to press the bearing out? Thanks, Mike