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Well, last night I took all those pictures to the cruise night and had the guys look at them. Everyone was sure they could see the slinger. one suggested I use the zoom feature of the computer to have a closer look. Why didn't I think of that?
It is definitely visible.
Today I'll see about getting a borescope to look up behind the flywheel in the area of the oil gallery plug. Then I'll likely come here again for pointers and tips on how to remove the transmission while the body is on the car. I seem to remember someone saying you have to back off the rear end.
At least I had my gauges come in to boost the morale. See photos in Member's projects.
Best Regards, Pat
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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To remove the transmission (and bell housing) it is necessary to only open up the U joint ball and unbolt the U joint.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 598
Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
Joined: Apr 2002
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Chev Nut Is absolutely correct, unless you have a riveted U joint rather than the bolted model, then you must push back the rear end. I have seen It happen, ask Wino Wally.
Richard
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
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1936 Low Cab Pickup
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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ChatMaster - 25,000
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The Standard came with a riveted U joint, the Masters were bolted.
Gene Schneider
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Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 287
Backyard Mechanic
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Backyard Mechanic
Joined: Mar 2008
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Chev Nut is correct. My driveline, however, came with a 4 speed 1-1/2 ton truck transmission and special u-joint, which we were unable to separate easily. We decided to pull the rear end back instead. We then installed a new, bolted Master u-joint to complement the newly rebuilt 3-speed transmission we were installing. Any future transmission / driveline work on my truck can now be done by splitting the new u-joint.
Thanks for keeping us on our toes, Gene.
1936 Low Cab Pickup
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To remove the transmission (and bell housing) it is necessary to only open up the U joint ball and unbolt the U joint. Gene, would I need to support the rear of the engine since the right mount bracket is attached to the bell housing? Or are the front ones combined with the left side strong enough?
Last edited by Pat S; 05/25/12 01:26 PM.
Best Regards, Pat
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I would support the engine to avoid damaging the rear mounts.
Gene Schneider
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Yes. the Book says suport the rear of the engine. I blocked it up. I removed the floor board and got some air from a fan I had blowing under the truck. Also gave some extra room to work.
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I got as far as separating the u-joint. That wasn't easy because the last bolt was turning. Aren't those bolts supposed to be pressed in there? Next problem, the yoke won't retract all the way to the torque tube. I doubt the transmission would ever come out like that, it has some 5" of front shaft to clear. I think I know why. It's because I followed someone's example and put the new driveshaft bushing in front of the old one. ![[Linked Image from i1176.photobucket.com]](http://i1176.photobucket.com/albums/x324/landman2/May2520124.jpg) So, it looks like I may have to back off the differential after all. Isn't this fun?
Best Regards, Pat
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Joined: Apr 2002
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Oil Can Mechanic
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Won't the torque tube drop straight down? From the photo It looks like It would, allowing your transmission to be pulled straight back.
Richard
I try to be the person my dog thought I was.
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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Technical Advisor ChatMaster - 10,000
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RAY Chevradioman http://www.vccacolumbiariverregion.org/1925 Superior K Roadster 1928 Convertible, Sport, Cabriolet 1933 Eagle, Coupe 1941 Master Deluxe 5-Passenger Coupe 1950 Styleline Deluxe 4-Door Sedan 1950 Styleline Deluxe Convertible 2002 Pontiac, Montana, Passenger Van 2014 Impala, 4-Door Sedan, White Diamond, LTZ 2017 Silverado, Double Cab, Z71, 4X4, White, Standard Bed, LTZ If you need a shoulder to cry on, pull off to the side of the road. Death is the number 1 killer in the world.
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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The torque tube will drop to the riveted pan on the chassis. It takes some finagalling(is that a word?) to get the trans out. Also a few cuss words.
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I've got it jacked right up in the photo. If I let it drop to the riveted pan Master Six mentions above, there wouldn't be enough clearance.
Best Regards, Pat
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Joined: Dec 2001
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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That's what I was saying,Pat. Be sure the torque tube ball is all the way back (loosen the seal collar and be sure the torque tube is clean). You then may have to lift the torque tube as high as you can and tie it off. This is the procedure on page 37 of the shop manual. Using two homemade guide pins helps out also.
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