VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - 1945 AND EARLIER 1933-1936 Sequencing advice

I am rebuilding a '34 5-window coupe of which only the shell and frame were left. I'll use a donor sedan for several body parts (i.e.hardware, fenders, running boards,at least one door & possibly the cowl). The roof is badly rusted from sitting upside down for a long time (I have all the necessary roof panels). Also, I have obtained a complete set of running mechanicals from someone who rodded his.

I have now completed almost all the wood except for the doors. While I get the door wood ready I'd like to get the sheet metal ready as well.I have a few questions regarding the best order of proceeding.

1-Should I sandblast and prime the body panels before doing the bodywork? By bodywork here, I am referring to putting in patch panels and somme hammer & dolly work. I thought I'd do the rough stuff first, then get evreything sandblasted. Some guys around here think otherwise.

2-I plan to install the roof panels only after the cowl and back end are mounted on the wood to have the correct dimensions.What do you think?

3-Because some of the metal is thinner, I was thinking of installing the patch panels using lap welds. Someone said they are moisture traps. Is there a way of sealing them? Of course anywhere the panels runs across a molding, it would have to be a butt weld.

4-The only wire I can think of which may need to be installed at this time is the dome light wire. Or can it be fished through after the steel is on the wood? Obviously the vacuum line has to go in first as well.

4- In my parts car, the harness (to the rear) appears to run between the frame and the wood, Isn't that asking for trouble? Shouldn'it it be all under the car?

5-It looks like at the factory, they installed the door surrounds on the wood then crimped on the skins. How have you guys installed your door wood? I have Entler's instructions but if I am to install the wood with the skins on, it might be dicey. It sure was removing the old stuff.

I apologize for the long winded requests and I hope someone will have ideas.

Thanks & best regards, Landman

:) :confused:

i all ways sand blast inside and out before the body work makes welding patch panels easier and will show other defects in the metal such as holes that you did not see before . the dome light wire will feed through the wood and metal i always run a ground from the dash as the original was grounded on the sheet metal at the door and may or maynot ground and to fix you have to remove the upolstry . the door skin was crimped on after the wood was assembled . i have changed a few pieces without taking the skin off doing a complete door you will want to clean and paint the inside anyway and back to assembley the doors have to be complete to fit the openings you want them complete and hang while you do the rest of the body .. hope this helps oldpush

Thanks Pushrod,

I have noticed the ground wire for the dome light in my parts car. It is tied to the roof support bracket above the passenger door. The other wire runs along the top of the roof rail and down along the windshield post to its source of power.

I will sandblast everything first as you suggest.

Take care

Landman

Push. does the dome lights (late 20s AND early 30S) wired like the newer Chevys? ...The power goes to the light and the switch connects the lamp to ground? I was going to trouble shoot the dome light on the 28 and that would be good to know.

32 is power to lamp, switch to lamp and ground

Thanks Leo , pretty standard with Chevrolet then...pretty good logic, one power lead an you can use several remote switches with out any problem, you only have to switch one on to turn the lamp on, but they all have to be off to turn the lamp off, and they also can be smaller wire.

Landman:
I can maybe add a thought or two for your items 4 & 5.
As regards the wiring to the rear of the car the harness runs down under the floor boards and runs through holes in the frame and through clips that are attached to the frame. Look closely, you're probably find them. On my '35 there's only a few wires to the rear for the gas sending unit and the rear tail/stop light. If memory serves me, the dome light wire on my car runs from behind the dash, up the passenger side windshield post, over the door frame and then drops down to the switch on the post behind the door, then back up to the roof for the light.

As regards the door skins, I made several new pieces for my Coach doors and very carefully bent back the steel door skin tabs to install them. As I recall I may not have been all of them to the "open" position, but I did remove all the nails. Then open the tabs just enough to snake the new wood in. Bend them back over and tack them in place. The sheet metal is pretty forgiving and not as brittle as I thought it might be. Just go slow and be careful...and have fun!