Reproduction Parts for 1916-1964 Chevrolet Passenger Cars & 1918-1987 Chevrolet & GMC Trucks



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#19447 01/28/02 06:32 AM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 72
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 72
If I was driving along and broke a rear axle, and had to change the axle on the side of the road, how would I go about doing this?
I was told there is some drama's to get the axle out of the housing?
I've not broken an axle, but I thought it would be handy to know some tricks in the event something like this took place.
Steve
http://www.angelfire.com/ab7/nashwilliams/index.html

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#19448 01/28/02 12:11 PM
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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ChatMaster - 15,000
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It really depends upon where the axle breaks. Since the axle is held to the spider gear by a "C" retainer it will be necessary to take the housing center cover off. If the break is near the center section then you can remove the large piece out the end and the small piece from the center. If the break is near the axle bearing. The small piece can be taken out from the end and the larger piece pushed out far enough to get a hold of it and pulled out the end. If the break is between the two bearings then a puller can be fabricated for the inside piece. Use a piece of tubing with the end flattened and a loop of mechanics wire sticking out the end. Slide the tubing into the end of the housing and lasso the shaft, tighten the wire loop and pull the axle piece out of the end.


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#19449 01/28/02 07:08 PM
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Posts: 62
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 62
Another way to get the broken stub out was shown to me by an old timer.

Do not take off the inner C-Clip until you have a hold of the stub. To get a hold of the stub (inner piece), make a tool out of a piece of straight wire (A welding rod works great). Using the outer piece of the broken axle as a size to go by, bend a loop on the end of the welding rod just slightly smaller than the broken end. The loop should be at right angles to the rest of the rod. On the end opposite the stub, bend a right angle "handle".

To get a hold of the stub, push the tool against the broken stub and rotate it so that the loop opens up until it slips over the stub. Once it is over the stub, twist the tool in the direction that tightens onto the stub. If it is grabbing OK, then remove the C-clip and pull the stub out while turning the tool so as to tighten the loop onto the stub.

Remember not to take off the inner c-clip until you have a hold of the stub. If the stub falls into the axle housing, it will be very difficult to get a hold of. You may have to experiment with the size of the loop to make sure it gets a good grip on the axle stub. If you are having problems with a grabby clutch, it may be worthwhile to make a tool up and carry it with you.


David Longmuir
#19450 02/08/02 06:27 PM
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 72
Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 72
How did you know I had a grabby clutch? :)
Its brand new (rebuilt with NOS parts) but still grabs when taking off on hills.
Steve

#19451 02/08/02 06:34 PM
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Posts: 23
Grease Monkey
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Grease Monkey
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Did you have the flywheel resurfaced when you rebuilt the clutch? If not it is probably the cause of the grabby clutch. Even if it looks smooth and nice it may have some hard spots that will cause it to grab. It is always a good idea to have the flywheel surface ground smooth.

#19452 02/08/02 09:33 PM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Yes

#19453 02/11/02 06:15 PM
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Shade Tree Mechanic
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Posts: 62
I didn't know you had a grabby clutch, but if you do then the chances of breaking an axle are much greater. Mine would work smoothly most of the time, and then every once in a while it would go in with a bang as though your foot had slipped off the pedal. I had the flywheel (both surfaces) and the pressure plate machined, and installed a new clutch disk. It now works very smoothly.


David Longmuir

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