VCCA Home Forums TECHNICAL - GENERAL Mechanical - Engine, Trans, etc 1941 1/2 ton clutch

The Master Parts book lists a different part for the 1941 1/2 ton truck clutch disk than any other vehicle. How is it different than the other 9" 38-53 clutch disks?

Lets go back to 1941. The 1941 1/2 ton truck used the same disc as the 1938-1940 pasenger cars. How did Chevrolet explain this in 1941?

For the passenger car disc."Improved engagement characteristics are incorperated in the clutch by revising the clock spring cushions to obtain a deeper cushion action. These are the coil springs linking the center hub of the disc to the lined area. (The springs make the engagement smoother.) Their thickness is increased slightly and also the width at the neck is increased. To give proper pressure plate movement in combination with the deeper cushioned drive plate, the linkage ratio is changed by shortening the release yoke offset rod. The pedal link is made longer due to the change in location of the pedals with reference to the engine"

This being said it amounts to the 1941 1/2 ton disc did not have these improvements but used the earlier model disc. The 1942 and up 1/2 ton used the later car disc with no other changes.

I installed a 1941-53 disc in my 1939 passenger cars years ago. It works fine. Changes are it engages slower and is smoother. GOOD . It begins to take hold closer to the floor so the pedal must be depressed fully when shifting. NO PROBLEM. I would use the same disc if I were to replace the present one. The 1941 car had a slightly longer pedal travel than the 1939.

Note that Chevrolet offered two different materials for lining the disc. For production they used the moulded material. It made the engagement a little smoother but had a shorter life. The woven material laster longer and was more expensive. In the dealership we always used the better woven disc for replacement.

Thanks for the detailed reply. So does the newer style clutch have anything to do with my new replacement clutch I bought needing to be pressed all the way to the floor to disengage? Even with the pedal adjusted as tight as possible, the clutch only barely (partially?) disengages and I am using the long throughout bearing. It doesn't even start disengaging until it is pushed down several inches.

It could be a small part of the problem. It may get better as the high spots on the facings wear down.
This is more of a problem with the after-market clutch discs. They tend to be thicker than the originals.

Would you suggest a burn-in, Gene? The old farts around here, said, they would burn in every new clutch. (It came up when I was having my old shuttering problem with the old motor/clutch)

No, I would just give it normal use and abuse

I thought so. I didn't "Burn" my new on in. It seated itself within the first 10 miles. Rembemer last year you told me the "Anti Chatter Rods" were nothing more than "Bandaids" Well, I didn't reinstall them on the new motor/trans. I can back up or lug it in first and she doesn't shutter at all. Matter of fact, the old clutch was warped from here to Sheboygan. Past the Rivets. Springs were great, though.